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Berbere in Doro Wat, Kitfo, and Shiro

A look at Ethiopian spice blends through doro wat, kitfo, and shiro, with attention to the ingredients and preparation of each dish.

Close-up of berbere spice blend showing red ground chilies mixed with whole spices and aromatics
By Rowan FlintMay 26, 20265 min read

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Berbere in Doro Wat, Kitfo, and Shiro

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Ethiopian cooking builds heat differently than a lot of other cuisines that lean on straight chili burn. The base of that difference is berbere, a spice blend that layers several ingredients together rather than relying on one dominant chili. Three dishes—doro watt, kitfo, and shiro—show how that blend behaves in different cooking contexts, from a long-simmered stew to a raw preparation to a fermented paste.

Berbere: What's Actually in the Blend

Berbere starts with dried Ethiopian chilies for base heat, then adds a mix of supporting spices. Fenugreek contributes a slightly bitter, maple-like note. Black cardamom adds a smoky, resinous depth. Ajwain (sometimes called Ethiopian bishop's weed) brings a sharp, thyme-like flavor. Garlic, ginger, and a mix of warm spices like clove and cinnamon round out the blend, and the exact ratio varies by household and region.

Berbere is often aged for weeks or months before use. Cooks who do this say the flavor mellows and deepens compared to a freshly ground batch, which tends to taste sharper and more one-note. Fresh berbere is still useful—it's just a different flavor profile than the aged version most restaurants use as their house blend.

Doro Watt: Building Flavor Through the Onions

Doro watt starts with a large quantity of red onions, cooked down slowly until they turn deeply caramelized and jammy. This step takes time, but it's the backbone of the dish: those onions provide sweetness and body that balance the berbere once it's added.

When the berbere goes in, it cooks into the onion base rather than sitting on top of the dish, which is part of why the stew reads as rounded rather than sharp. The hard-boiled eggs added toward the end simmer in the sauce and pick up flavor as they sit, so eggs added earlier in the cooking process tend to taste more infused than ones added later.

Kitfo: Raw Beef and a Fresh Spice Blend

Kitfo is built on raw, finely minced beef, seasoned with a fresh (not aged) berbere blend and warmed niter kibbeh, Ethiopia's spiced clarified butter. Because the dish isn't cooked, the berbere's flavor comes through directly rather than being mellowed by heat, which is why kitfo tends to taste sharper and more immediate than doro watt.

Kitfo is traditionally served with a few accompaniments that aren't just garnish: ayib (a fresh, mild cheese), gomen (collard greens, usually cooked with onion and spice), and injera for scooping. Together these round out the plate and give you something cooling to alternate with the seasoned beef.

Shiro: A Ground Chickpea Base

Shiro is made from ground chickpeas (or a chickpea-lentil blend) cooked into a thick paste with berbere, onion, and garlic. The consistency is deliberately dense—thick enough to cling to injera rather than run off it—which is part of what makes shiro a practical, filling dish for a fasting-friendly meal.

Fermented versions of berbere are sometimes used in shiro, which adds a tangier, more complex background flavor compared to using fresh spice. Leftover shiro is often described as tasting more developed the next day, likely because the spices have more time to meld into the thick base, similar to how many stews taste better as leftovers.

The Common Thread

Across all three dishes, the goal is the same: build heat through a layered spice blend and a supporting ingredient—caramelized onions, niter kibbeh, or a chickpea base—rather than relying on raw chili alone. That's part of what makes Ethiopian cooking distinct from cuisines that measure heat mainly in Scoville units.

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